Smart Locks & Access:
Free Guide

What Smart Locks Actually Require

Smart locks sound simple — replace a deadbolt, control it from your phone. In practice there are a few things worth knowing before you start, or you'll end up with a lock that doesn't fit, doesn't connect, or connects the wrong way.

Door prep: the backset and fit

Before ordering any smart lock, measure your door's backset — the distance from the edge of the door to the center of the deadbolt hole. Standard backsets are 2⅜" and 2¾". Most smart locks accommodate both, but verify before purchasing. Also check your door thickness: most locks fit 1⅜" to 1¾" doors. Thicker doors may need an extension kit.

If you have a double-cylinder deadbolt (keyed on both sides — common on doors with a glass panel), most smart locks won't replace it without modification, because smart locks use a thumb turn on the interior side. Check your current hardware before assuming a straight swap.

Connectivity: Wi-Fi vs. Bluetooth vs. Thread

The practical difference: Wi-Fi locks (Schlage Encode Plus) work remotely without any hub — your phone talks directly to the lock over your home network. Thread locks (Level Lock Pro) need an Apple TV 4K, HomePod, or HomePod mini on your network as a Thread border router. If you already have one of those for music or TV, you have this covered.

Power and batteries

All residential smart locks run on batteries — there's no line-voltage power option. Battery life varies significantly by lock type:

• Schlage Encode Plus: 4 AA batteries, approximately 6 months of typical use. The keypad backlight and Wi-Fi radio are the main drains.
• Level Lock Pro: 1 CR2 battery, rated up to 1 year. The Thread radio is much more power-efficient than Wi-Fi.

Both locks warn you through the app when batteries are getting low. Neither will lock you out when batteries die — they fail in the last set position and can still be opened with a physical key. Keep a spare key accessible and replace batteries before they hit critical levels.

Apple Home hub requirement

For any HomeKit lock to respond remotely or run automations when you're away, you need an Apple Home Hub: an Apple TV 4K, HomePod, or HomePod mini that's powered on and at home. If you have any of these already, you have this covered. If not, a HomePod mini ($99) is the cheapest way to add the capability.

Planning Your Access Strategy

A smart lock system isn't just about which locks to buy — it's about designing how people will get in and out, in every scenario: family members, guests, service providers, and the inevitable "I left my phone at work" situation.

Which doors get smart locks?

Start with entry points you use most and where you'd benefit from remote access or codes. The front door is almost always first — it's the most-used entry, most visible to visitors, and the door where keypad codes for guests matter most. Back doors and secondary entries are good candidates if used frequently or if you want universal keyless entry.

Not every door needs a smart lock. Interior doors, rarely-used doors, and doors where you don't need the smart features are fine as regular deadbolts. Smart locks where you don't need smart features just mean more batteries to track.

Code strategy: think before you add

Smart locks with keypads (like the Schlage Encode Plus) allow up to 100 access codes. A clean code structure from the start is much easier to maintain than cleaning up an ad hoc one six months later. A simple framework:

• Household codes: One per regular resident. Keep these short (4–6 digits) and memorable. Never share with guests.
• Service codes: One per recurring provider (house cleaner, dog walker). Set as recurring schedules — active only during their regular time window.
• Guest codes: Created as needed, set with an expiration date. Delete when the visit ends.
• Emergency code: One backup code known to a trusted neighbor or family member. Change it annually.

Lock type by door

• Front door: A keypad lock (Schlage Encode Plus) is ideal — guests and service providers use codes without needing a phone or app. The visible keypad is expected here.
• Back/secondary doors: An invisible lock (Level Lock Pro) fits well. Less likely to need keypad codes; household members unlock via Apple Home or auto-unlock. The invisible exterior is also a security advantage.
• Garage: A smart garage controller (iSmartGate Lite) paired with door sensors gives remote visibility and control without replacing any existing hardware.

Plan for battery failure

Every smart lock in your setup should have a physical key backup accessible somewhere. A smart lock with dead batteries that you can't open is a real problem if you don't have a key. Keep a spare somewhere you'll actually use — a neighbor, a lockbox, your car.

What's next

This covers the foundation. The full guide walks through installation and setup for each device in this system — Schlage Encode Plus, Level Lock Pro, iSmartGate Lite, and Aqara sensors — plus how to bring everything into Apple Home and the automations worth building on day one.